Selling a Car With Faults or Defects: How to Do It Right

    Written and reviewed by Arman Pargar, founder of Min Bilvärdering · Updated August 1, 2026 · 7 min read

    Yes, you can sell a car with faults. People do it every day, from cars with warning lights on the dashboard to cars with a blown engine or a driving ban. What decides whether the deal goes well or ends in a row is not the faults themselves, but whether you are honest about them. The single most important rule when selling a broken or defective car is the duty to disclose (upplysningsplikt): you must tell the buyer about the faults you know of. Do it right and you can sell safely, even a car that barely moves.

    The duty to disclose: tell them what you know

    As a seller you are obliged to inform the buyer of the faults and defects you know about. You do not have to be a mechanic and dig out hidden faults, but everything you actually know (that the gearbox jerks, that the car burns oil, that there is rust in the sill, that a warning light is on) must come out. If you state this clearly, both in the ad and in the purchase contract, you protect yourself against the buyer coming back later demanding money. A fault the buyer knew about and accepted at the time of purchase normally cannot be claimed against afterwards.

    The opposite, hiding a known fault to get the car sold, is what leads to disputes and, in the worst case, claims for damages. It is better to be too clear than too vague; it both protects you and builds trust with serious buyers.

    Selling as-is, but doing it right

    "Sold as-is" (i befintligt skick) is a phrase that often appears in contracts for private sales, and it means the buyer accepts the car as it stands. But it is not a free pass. A general "as-is" does not protect you if the car turns out to have a serious fault you knew about but did not mention, or if the car is in substantially worse condition than the buyer could reasonably expect given the price and description. Always combine "as-is" with a concrete list of the faults you know about.

    Write a clear description of the faults

    • List every known fault concretely: "Slow to start in the cold", "Rust on the left rear wing", "All-wheel drive not working".
    • State whether the car has a driving ban or has not passed inspection, and why.
    • Mention known upcoming costs, such as a timing belt change that is overdue or an expensive service that is coming up.
    • Take photos of the damage and save the ad and contract, so there is a record of what the buyer was told.

    Who buys a broken car, and at what price?

    The market for cars with faults is bigger than you might think. Dealers and garages buy cars with defects to repair and resell, and they have far better opportunities than a private individual to get a repair done cheaply. That is exactly why a dealer is often the right buyer for a car with faults: they buy with their eyes open, take over the whole risk and you avoid worrying about complaints. The price will of course be lower than for a fault-free car, but the difference is often smaller than what the repair would have cost you to do yourself.

    A common disappointment is spending several thousand kronor on a repair just before selling, in the belief that it will raise the price by the same amount. Often it does not: buyers rarely pay krona for krona for a repair. Instead, collect bids on the car as it is first, and work out whether the repair really pays off before you order it.

    When scrapping is the best option

    If nobody will pay more than a few hundred kronor and the repair costs more than the car is worth, scrapping can be the rational route. Take the car to an authorised car scrapyard (bildemontering), which issues a certificate of receipt (mottagningsbevis) and handles the deregistration with Transportstyrelsen. Handing in a complete car to an authorised scrapyard is free, and the certificate of receipt is your proof that your responsibility as owner has ended. But explore the market first: even a car with serious faults often has a value as a parts car or a repair project that exceeds its scrap value.

    How to get the best price despite the faults

    Be honest, document the faults, and then let several dealers bid on the car as it is. When dealers who are used to handling defective cars compete for your car, you quickly see what it is actually worth in its current condition, without having to guess or spend money on unnecessary repairs. The bids are free and give you a floor to compare against if you still want to try selling privately.

    Frequently asked questions

    Can you sell a car that has faults or a driving ban?

    Yes. What matters is that you clearly inform the buyer of all the faults you know about, both in the ad and in the purchase contract. Cars with driving bans or serious faults are often bought by dealers or garages for repair.

    Does 'sold as-is' protect me as a seller?

    Partly. The wording means the buyer accepts the car as it stands, but it does not protect you if you concealed a serious known fault or if the car is in substantially worse condition than the buyer could reasonably expect. Always combine it with a concrete list of known faults.

    Should I repair the car before selling it with faults?

    Not automatically. Buyers rarely pay back the full repair cost in a higher price. Collect bids on the car as it is first, and work out whether a repair really pays off before you order it.

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